Steve Kaufman
(K=2748) - Comment Date 10/6/2005
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Hi Ann, you have come up on a problem that can't really be fixed in many situations. If you want to use very long exposures, you must make sure that the sky is also properly exposed if you are composing an image with the sky in it as well. The only way this might work out is if the sun is fairly low, and the sky isn't so bright. Then of course, your waterfalls will probably be in the shade. Now there are ways to blend two images in photoshop, processing one for the sky and the other for the waterfalls (you can use the same photo, just adjust one for the sky, and the second for the waterfalls). If you have Photoshop CS, there are some included PDF files, "Adobe Photoshop Tips and Tricks". In that is, "Total Contrast Control using Two Images". It explains in detail how to blend two images. Best Wishes! Steve
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Bob Pentz
(K=-318) - Comment Date 10/6/2005
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Ann, If you don't want to get involved with PhotoShop, try a grdauated density filter. The will prevent the sky from overexposing aqnd allow proper exposure of the falls.
I did similar shots before the advent of PS
Bob
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Ann Nida
(K=45248) - Comment Date 10/6/2005
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Thanks Steve. I'm using P/Shop 7 right now but have been thinking about upgrading so I might have to make time to look into that.
Thanks Bob...I do use PS but didn't want to totally cheat and fix all my bad exposures with PS. I was kinda hoping to conquere this challenge using minimal P/Shop help. Will have to look into the density filter option and give that a try too.
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Steve Kaufman
(K=2748) - Comment Date 10/9/2005
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There was a discussion here about file sharing. I have deleted two comments discussing a file sharing service. I'd like to caution all here about downloading programs and key generators. Programs, like photographs are protected by copyright. If you use a program, photograph, music file, or someone else's car without permission or paying for it, consider the fact that you are stealing it. As a professional photographer, I sell use rights to my copyrighted images every week. I don't want some one using my images without my authorization. I firmly believe in paying for all my programs, and I will not share them other than allowing someone to use them on my own computer for evaluation.
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Ann Nida
(K=45248) - Comment Date 10/9/2005
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I agree with you Steve. I don't use such free downloads. Although I have seen some I've never trusted them or their content. I would much rather buy a complete program from a reputable store and have all the necessary user manuals that go with it.
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Michael Fox
(K=3180) - Comment Date 10/11/2005
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On the topic of graduated density filters, I have used these with varying success. I've found these work well if I'm able to find a subject with lines that cooperate with the straight line of gradation in the filter (assuming filters used in a Cokin-type holder). I've invariably found that my intended subject will have a tree or some other object that spans both the top and bottom of the image and ends up being correctly exposed on the bottom and under exposed on the top. I suspect the best answer is to find subjects that don't have such hurdles to overcome; however, nature doesn't often lend itself to such clarity. I'm curious to learn how other nature shooters may be applying graduated density filters and their technique around this common hurdle.
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Ryan Brown
(K=441) - Comment Date 11/5/2005
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ann i too have the same problem, and it really bugs me. i have all these great ideas for day shot down by the weir but its always too bright! thats australia for ya i guess. one thing i did find however was wait until its a full moon, and you get some wicked night photography shot with a long exposure. if the filter works can u give me a reply please. thanks and good luck!
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Ann Nida
(K=45248) - Comment Date 11/5/2005
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OK Ryan. Will keep you posted. I'm in the states in Oregon now and we've just gone into our rainy season so I don't know how much I'll get out to take photos but if I try out new (to me) techniques I'll let you know how I go.
Michael....I was look at filters today but I think I would go for a non graduated one. The graduated sounds too mfiddly with trying to line it up. I have a polarising filter and sometimes I forget to line it up correctly.
Cheers all and thanks for your input.
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Shaun Rullens
(K=2732) - Comment Date 11/7/2005
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Ryan,
I get some good shots with 35mm film by using a Double Exposure (2 or more shots on the same frame). I have had shots with 2 moons. I guess with digial it is all done in PS.
I don't do much digital mostly all my shooting is still Film.
Shawn
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Patrick Ziegler
(K=21797) - Comment Date 12/11/2005
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THis is not a difficult fix. Get yourself some ND filters that attach to your lens. You can get them in differnt stops. ie. -2 -6 etc.
First, choose the apeture you want to shoot with. f/11 or 22. Now, meter the sky or whatever the brightest area in the seen is. Now, what is your camer telling you the shutter needs to be?
Lets say 1/125th but you want 1 second for the smooth water effect. Attach an ND6 and you are there. Then maybe close down another stop and take another.
ND filters can be stacked on the lens to get you the shutter speed you want. Always good to bracket longer exposures. Lets say you are doing a 30 second in low light, I'll do another a 60 sec and 90 and maybe throw in a 15. If you are shooting digital, this might not be needed.
ANd yes, ISO makes a difference. Going from 100 to 50 is one stop. That will allow you to change you shutter by one stop.
Read up on the "exposure triangle", ISO/Apeture/Shutter. They are all inter related by "stops" If you change one of the three then one of the other two have to also change to maintain the same exposure.
Back to the waterfall, ND filters are tried and proven technique for waterfalls. ALso, a Circular polorizer will help you keep the sky blue,(as long as the sun is not in your face)
These two filters are the two every photographer should have in his bag. "ND and Circular polorizer". A must have for landscape photography.
Also, keep a skylight filter atached to the front of you lens allway for protection...
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Ann Nida
(K=45248) - Comment Date 12/11/2005
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Thank you Pat for your in depth and informative reply.
I do always keep UV filters on my lenses to protect them and I also have a circular polarising lens which I use more often than not as most of my photography is landscape. I've also since bought a couple of ND filters so I have had a lot of improvement in my waterfalls shots. I now find I can even shoot them in the rain and foggy conditions and spend a lot less time worrying about my numbers and settings and consequently a lot less time in the rain getting wet now. The things we do for a nice photo. haha
I have found it's all about practice as with anything we like to do.
Thanks Pat. You've been most helpful.
Cheers - Ann :)
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Rodney Steele
(K=1841) - Comment Date 12/27/2005
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Ann, Pat's comments (and others) are very complete. However, some of the ND filters are gradient (sp?). That is, one half is ND and the other half is clear. Sometimes this is sufficient. You mentioned being in the rainy season. Even though cloudy skies don't compare to blue, a cloudy sky will allow long exposures on water with less chance of over exposure. There is ample light coming in and the clouds help disperse it evenly over the subject. The cloudy skies allow for some experimenting with a different type of light on the water. Hope it's all fun. Rodney
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Rodney Steele
(K=1841) - Comment Date 12/27/2005
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p.s.
Ann, On one of my photos, Roger Williams made a comment about letting water look like water and not doing the long exposures. After looking at other postings on Usefilm I think he has a good point and is also one that can be fun experimenting with to find that perfect balance. Hope it's all more fun! Rodney
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