Jeroen Wenting
(K=25317) - Comment Date 1/5/2007
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There is no wrong time of day, only good times and better times, to be out with a camera ;)
And remember few people can afford the luxury of picking where they will be at any given time, especially if that location is remote and the time early in the morning or late at night.
The vast majority of people is tied to schedules, either the people they're travelling with, a job or household that needs them, or whatever.
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Emmanuel Panagiotakis
(K=6267) - Comment Date 1/5/2007
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The understanding of what is the wrong time of day to take a Nature picture on a sunny day, were the light is to strong and flat ,and without any good colors, and very strong shadows, It's what separates
The good photographers of the better photographers ;)
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Ivan N. Prgonjic
(K=3053) - Comment Date 1/6/2007
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Thank you Emmanuel for explaining your way of taking pictures ... I would just gues that ND filters help a lot to get those colours and tone. Only thing that is litle bit strange with all those filters is that in real world that image looks diferent, it doesn't have such a strong colours... but it gives nice picture, of course. All the best :)
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Emmanuel Panagiotakis
(K=6267) - Comment Date 1/6/2007
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The main purpose of using neutral density (i.e., ND) filters is to reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens. As a result, if a shutter speed is kept the same, after adding a neutral density filter, a larger aperture must be used to obtain the same exposure. Similarly, if an aperture is kept the same, after adding a neutral density filter, a slower shutter speed must be used to obtain the same exposure,Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion
And the color it done in post processing with PS
I hope this will help
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Ivan N. Prgonjic
(K=3053) - Comment Date 1/6/2007
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Thank you Emmanuel, of course it helps! Every information how to make something like you did , helps :) Would you mind to shere information about what you did in PS (I'm not good in it any way, but I may try if it not to hard:) If you don't feel like sharing "the secret" it's fine, no hard feelings here
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Emmanuel Panagiotakis
(K=6267) - Comment Date 1/6/2007
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Ivan I can help you a little
but not here sent me your email and i will reply
My is ep.photo@comcast.net ;)
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hayden johnes
(K=39) - Comment Date 8/4/2007
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Hi Emmanuel. Thanks for the info. I have but one question. Can you (or anyone out there) tell me how to create exposures of longer duration? (My camera is a F100) I understand the ND Grad filter story, but aren't we only talking about a matter of a second or two with these? Or a stop or two? What is the trick to trying to create a VERY blurred image? I'm talking 10 or more seconds to try to capture the waves on a beach. I have tried these sort of shutter speeds with the absolute minimum aperature (f32)and still only get very over-exposed photos. Any help would be appreciated before I go broke and have to sell my camera to pay the bills! Hayden
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Jeroen Wenting
(K=25317) - Comment Date 8/4/2007
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A 2 stop ND will get your exposure down 2 stops. That will turn a 1/1000 second exposure into 1/250 second with the same aperture.
an 8 stop ND would bring that down to near what you want, but you're effectively shooting through a sheet of black glass if you use those :)
Overexposed photos have nothing to do with using ND filters or not, it's you using a shutter time that's too long for the aperture you choose under the lighting conditions available.
You'll have to get up earlier or go to bed later if you want to get those shutter times at that location under the cloud cover you're getting, so you can shoot at dusk or dawn.
NDs are essentially a last resort, quite contrary to what Emmanuel seems to think.
They will help you, but they can never replace being in the right place at the right time.
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Emmanuel Panagiotakis
(K=6267) - Comment Date 8/4/2007
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This is a quick tip it maybe help you
ISO 50 and try to shoot later on the day
or this is one more filter you can buy :
follow this Link :http://www.camerafilters.com/pages/nd.aspx and look for the ND-400: Photographing solar eclipses and ultra-bright light sources can be extremely dangerous. This filter reduces light values by 9 stops to less than 1/500th of its original intensity and allows safe photography. It can also be used to achieve super slow shutter speeds in daylight to render moving subjects invisible.
Let me know if this is helps
Thanks Emmanuel
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Chris Hunter
(K=25634) - Comment Date 8/5/2007
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Here's what I've done many times to create images ranging from 1/2 second to over 1 minute exposure times.
Arrive to the general location you want to shoot at least 20 minutes before sunset. This gives you time to find some interesting compositions to shoot, and to set up your equipment.
Start shooting from 5-10 minutes before sunset. Establish the general depth of field you want, as you'll be somewhat unable to after sunset. If you're going for a kind of "standard" format for long exposure coastal photos, then you'll want front-to-back sharpness so count on shooting at f/16 or smaller.
As the sun begins to set, keep shooting images to establish composition and exposure values. Keep your aperture as small as possible. You'll be adjusting the shutter to longer speeds as you have less light. Plan to stay 30 minutes to one hour after sunset to get the longest possible exposures. Using a polarizer or neutral density filter will increase the shutter time as well. Normally, I would use polarizing + UV filter for protection around surf/water.
Use a remote shutter release or the self timer on the camera once you get to speeds slower than approx 1/20th. A decent tripod is definitely required.
You'll have to get out and do many times in order to adjust to shooting in almost total darkness, especially if you're close to large waves and the coastline. Always be careful out early in the morning or after dusk around coastal areas. I've found that sandy beaches don't offer the most dramatic scenes for long exposures... but rather the areas with large and small rocks - which carry on from the shoreline into the water - are great for interesting foregrounds. After about one year of consistently shooting long exposure photos, I was able to get shots like the one attached.
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15 seconds // f22 // iso100 // 28mm
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Stan Pustylnik
(K=6768) - Comment Date 4/15/2008
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Stan Pustylnik
(K=6768) - Comment Date 4/18/2008
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Emmanuel, by shoting only at early morning and at evening you are limiting yourself. Some subjects could be photographed most effective way during bright sunshine. Bright sunshine may be used to separate subjects from rest of frame. It also allows extra short exposures so needed in macro and action photography.
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Indranil Ray
(K=2035) - Comment Date 9/2/2008
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Hey Guys, I joined this site yesterday because it seems to me interesting discussion forum with some good professional. I am not a professional photographer but my hobby is photography. I have to learn more and more in this vast photography world :). I dont have SLR Camera, I am using Sony CyberShots H7. I am agree with Emmanuel in certain issues. I also used to take photos between 10 am and in the afternoon after 3pm. I dont use tripod everytime. In my City sun set time is generally 6pm. But in few special occations like rain photography or street photography times varies.
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vince capistrano
(K=5) - Comment Date 2/9/2012
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nice shot...i really love landscape and seascape photography...
slow shutter sometimes, ( if its too over) creates a smoke-like perception to water, especially shooting it on seascapes.. The problem of it, is that it undefines the movement of water (if over exposed).
But for some, they truly love shooting on long exposures..still is good. Everyone has its own styles..
:-)
rockpaperscissorsph.com
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