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Anne Bogardus
{K:2875} 6/4/2004
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Harry,
Thanks so much for your comment and advice. Manual focus with the Fuji seems to be fairly straightforward, so I'll be interested to see the results.
Regards,
Anne
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Harry Jasper
{K:2913} 6/4/2004
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I had the same problem with my Nikon 5700 it was very difficult to get a sharp close up.
What you can try is to focus manually. Hopefully you have the possibility to see trough the lens and not as whit my 5700 what had a mini lcd screen whit a matrix in it. That was just awful. And almost impossible to focus by hand. Otherwise it might help if you take some more distance form the opject probably the camera focus easier than. You can crop the image later in ps or any other program.
Best regards
Harry.Jasper
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Anne Bogardus
{K:2875} 6/4/2004
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Peter,
Thanks for taking the time to give me some pointers on this. It's been puzzling to me. I'm going to be trying some new images in the next week, and I've made note of your recommendations so I can use them as well. I've recently been playing with the manual focus and have used the Focus Check in a few cases as well, but I don't always remember to do that since I'm usually so focused on composition. Maybe eventually it will all be second nature to me!
Many thanks,
Anne
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Anne Bogardus
{K:2875} 6/4/2004
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Thomas,
Thanks so much for your pointers on this. This was taken last year, so I don't recall all the details, but I think I probably was too far away. I'm going to try some more using your speed/aperture recommendations.
Thanks!
Anne
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Anne Bogardus
{K:2875} 6/4/2004
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Teunis,
Thanks for taking the time to show me how you corrected with the software! I did not think of doing it myself.
Warm regards,
Anne
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Peter Daniel
{K:33866} 6/3/2004
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It looks like the focus is a little further back on the leaves... Try Center-weighted or Spot Metering. Also manual focus. The auto focus has problems with non solid surfaces, trying to pick a point to focus on.
Macro mode sets zoom to 35-80mm with a range of 10-80cm.
64-zone TTL metering.
Choice of Average, Center-weighted or Spot metering.
On the back is the Focus Check and AE-L buttons. The Focus check is used when in manual focus mode to magnify the central portion of the frame for critical focusing. The AE-L button locks the exposure value, white balance and focus so you can re-compose the scene and shift the subject. AE-Lock is also very handy for making sequential panorama shots with the same exposure values.
The autofocus is quick and accurate with almost no "hunting." The manual focus is assisted with onscreen icons that indicate "too close," "too far," and "proper" focus and a Focus Check feature that magnifies the center portion of the screen. The manual focus ring is a "fly by wire" type of control with a fine range of adjustment and requires several turns to go from near to far.
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Thomas Rubin
{K:1251} 6/3/2004
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A dramatic picture by it's differences of hard leaves an soft flower - one could point out this more ....
Probabely you had a too log time or it was windy. macros normally need a shutter of less than 1/250. Also may be the aperature was too big, it should be beyond 5.6, in this case of a high depth it need's more then 5.6. Finally you probabely used a high zoom instead of going as close as possible to the subject?
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Linn Currie
{K:24426} 6/3/2004
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Hi Anne
Was it overcast or in poor lighting spot? Did you have a bit of camera shake? Are you sure your red rectangle was locked on the purple centre? What was your aperture set at?
Can you send me some of the other problem ones to raglin@ragdoll.co.za Maybe I can spot something in other images - but in this particular one, the fault could lie at many doors.
Will check back later.
Linn
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Teunis Haveman
{K:53426} 6/3/2004
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look
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Teunis Haveman
{K:53426} 6/3/2004
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Anne, I try whit Photo Paint
This Maria Distle blow in my Garden
Teunis
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