| Photography Forum: Large Format Photography Forum: |
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Q. 4x5 developing
Asked by Michael Salomon
(K=-285) on 9/26/2004
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when developing 4 x 5 sheet film, are there any advantages/disadvantages to developing the film in trays as oppsosed to in a jobo rotary tube(not sure if thats what its called exactly)
and can anyone recommend a good developer for 4x5 tri-x asa 320? i'll be using kodak d-76 to start.
thanks for the help
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Phillip Cohen
(K=10561) - Comment Date 9/26/2004
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I started off developing in trays. I quickly moved to the yankee cut film daylight tanks and then finally to a Jobo CPP2 rotary processor and never looked back. With trays you have a problem of consistency, and the danger of scratching the film, not to mention you are a slave to the process and cannot do anything else while you are busy developing the sheet film. The Jobo has always given very consistent results. I have a CPP2 and just purchased an ATL3 to further automate the process. If you do go for the Jobo, get one of the larger ones like a CPA or CPP which will allow you to use the Expert Drums, you cannot beat this combo, also make sure to get the lift kit.
As for developer, I typically use Kodak HC110 dilution B for TRI-X, it is a classic combination that has proven itself over the years.
Phil
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David Grandy
(K=20) - Comment Date 11/26/2004
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To me the biggest event that occurs when I tray process is the incredible mess that I make! I also have had no luck getting even devlopment in either tray of dip and dunk processing.
I have been using the Unicolor drum and roller for over a decade now. It's much cheaper than a Jobo, although Jobo's might be available at firesale price as digital pro's clean out their closets!
I can process two sheets of 4x5 film or one sheet of 8x10 in the Unicolor tank and have gotten wonderfully even development, which I can easily see in the even tones of the skies.
In theory I could process four 4x5 sheets in the Uniclor drum but I find that they overlap. With the electric roller I also find that processing is so painless and so semi-automatic that I don't resent four or five runs to get things processed, like I would if I had to do hand agitation.
I like to use Kodak D-76 as my developer. I use it 1:1 to make sure that it is ALWAYS the same. With the Unicolor tank I use so little developer that even being cheap doesn't make me want to get into the replenishment game. the key in any case is to make sure that the developer is a constant, not a variable and that way I can make deliberate changes to the processing.
The shot that I'm sending was taken with a Toyo Field camera with a 65mm f8 Schneider Super Angulon on Agfa RSXII ISO 100 transparency film.
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Fishing shack
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Michael Sebastian
(K=179) - Comment Date 2/12/2005
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New here, I see that this thread is somewhat stale! :) but here is my .02 in case you're still interested.
I picked up a used Jobo ATL-1500 on ebay for around $900 a year ago. You can likely do better now. It is automatic so there is nothing to fret over once the tank is loaded with film. Even the manual Jobo's are better than open tanks or the Yankee--and I have used them all.
The Jobo's advantages are ease, convenience, consistency, and less damage to the film.
I have used TMaxRS developer for TMax sheet film (it HAS to be TMAX RS, not regular TMax, developer for TMax sheet film due to some coating or film that won't come off otherwise); I have also used Tri-X with HC-110.
I am experimenting with Xtol right now for both 120 and 4x5 film (tri x and others.) I am getting away from TMax film because I find it very intolerant of overexposure or overdevelopment. Maybe it's just my lack of skill, but I find it tough to get consistent results even with the Jobo.
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chris autio
(K=92) - Comment Date 7/28/2005
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I found uneven development using Jobo rotary processor CPP2. This Jobo worked excellent only for my 220 rolls.
I have since returned to developing in 8x10 trays. I have a big flat sink, so I don't have the messy trouble others have noted. Why be messy? Be generous with your developer.
Handling is critical: presoak film in separate tray,adding each sheet to the water for complete submersion. Keep sheets together the whole development. Move the whole lot to the development tray, lifting at an angle the whole stack. (this action is your agitation.)Slide out from below each sheet onto the top of the stack. Rotate 90 degrees. Repeat. Move stack to stop bath. Rinse fingers. Lift bottom sheet onto top of stack just as you would in the development, though rotation is unnecessary. Fix film in an 11 x 14 tray. Rinse well.
Lights. Wash with care, as emulsion is delicate. Use SPRINT Archive fixer remover. This is excellent hypo clearing bath, you can purchase this at B&H in New York.
I develop using Extol, finding that it extracts the best of subtle values. You should definitely try Extol.
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Geert Vanden Broeck
(K=284) - Comment Date 8/16/2005
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Stand development is the answer.
I mostly use Rodinal 1+200 for 50 minutes for TRI-X 320, rated 200asa.
I never had unevendevelopment with this method:
I modified a tray by dividing it in 6 compartiments that each will hold one 4x5 sheet, separated by perforated spacers so that the developer can evenly spread in the tray. No worries for scratched negatives.
Prefill the tray with developer and once the sheets are in place, I cover the tray with a larger black specimen for light tightness.
For safety, I don't light the rooms lights afterwards, but only the safelight while the sheets are in the developer, that is, with the cover atop.
After the development, in darkness, I transfer the sheets individually to the stop bath and then into the fixer. When in the fixer for about 2 minutes, I can safely put the lights on and.
G
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Clay Turtle
(K=-42) - Comment Date 4/25/2006
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Interesting question! I had read about the early days of photography & how wet plates were used, amazing to think that they not only processed the film but actually made their film in the field (in tents).
So my first experiences were developing single sheets (b&w) in a dark bag while camping out. I had to use a dark bag because I used a opague plastic container that had separators which I filled with the working solutions.
Just to show that it can be done with minimal equipment & careful forethought & proceedure. I have worked both open tray & drums, good results can be had with either but drums have the advantage in that you can load them in a bag then work with them in any lit room (kitchen, bathroom, etc) and using the tube or drum allows for single use volumes in processing which provides a measure of consistency to individual processing of sheets. Starting off with multiple exposures, you can individually process & adjust for optium results, a good way to learn about variations in processing chemistry & results it produces.
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