Jorge Gasteazoro
(K=30) - Comment Date 12/13/2001
|
Well for me it is pt/pd, but I never liked the matt drydown on the prints, so now I am looking into making pt/pd prints with a glossy "look" much like an air dried FB print. WHat do you all think? any suggestions?
so far I saw a technique using fixed out FB paper, but it is a little bit cumbersome. So any of you out there with an idea, let me know.
|
|
|
|
David Goldfarb
(K=7611) - Comment Date 12/14/2001
|
I've been attracted to trying the Ziatype process marketed by Bostick and Sullivan, but my current living situation doesn't really provide convenient access to the sun (I know this sounds strange, but I live in a ground floor apartment in Manhattan surrounded by other buildings, and the roof is alarmed) or much space for a UV exposure box. I guess it is no surprise that platinum printing is much more popular in the Southern U.S. than it is up North.
|
|
|
|
james mickelson
(K=7344) - Comment Date 12/16/2001
|
Jorge, there is a waxing process that is available from the Rocky Mountain Photographers and also you can shellac the print to get a gloss on the surface. Shellacing was done for years in the early part of the century. The waxing I think is done using floorwax. James
|
|
|
|
David Goldfarb
(K=7611) - Comment Date 12/16/2001
|
Paul Strand used to varnish his prints, and wedding labs still do this for prints to be mounted in albums. At one time it was considered a method of preservation, but I don't believe that is the case any more, since the varnish itself can deteriorate.
|
|
|
|
Brian Bednarek
(K=1656) - Comment Date 4/5/2002
|
I currently am enjoying doing Van Dyke prints... love that brown color. I am just experimenting with Cyanotypes, but not as successful as I have been with the Van Dykes. Time an practice will fix that. I have been using mostly 4x5 and 2.25 x 3.25 negs. I am in the process of building an 8x10 pinhole camera, hopefully I'll get some good negs for printing.
brine
|
|
|
|
David N. VanMeter
(K=552) - Comment Date 4/18/2002
|
I am very partial to Cyanotypes. The look is haunting and elegant. The process is very simple to do and pretty cheap.
|
|
|
|
Stephen Gangi
(K=566) - Comment Date 8/30/2002
|
I haave been doing a few cyanotypes. All you need is sunlight and water.
|
|
|
|
Lexie Summers
(K=2027) - Comment Date 11/21/2002
|
I like the look of the cyanotype and vandyke. Both a beautiful in their own right. I don't know which one I like better. It really depends on the subject matter.
|
|
|
|
Ed Buffaloe
(K=235) - Comment Date 1/14/2003
|
The process that has captured my attention is oil pigment printing--much easier than bromoil but with the same manipulations available. It does require a large negative though.
|
|
|
|
Gary Auerbach
(K=3935) - Comment Date 2/1/2003
|
After experimenting with cyanotype, kallitype, gum and platinum/palladium, I have chosen the platinum process as the method I work in. For ten years now. I have not made a silver print. Needing a negative the size of the image, I have worked my way from 6x6cm, to 5x7inch to 8x10inch and now include a Wisner 11x14inch. I travel with an 8x10 Wisner. Platinum printing is easy if you have a good negative to work with. That is the trick. My effort is to lug the big camera. I put three stops additional exposure on the film. Highlights need to be very steep in order to have the burn time to bring up the density of shadows, and to get the good black. The platinum print is absolutely permanent....at least as long as the paper (substrate) lasts. Color is controllable between sepia and charcoal, as is contrast with 13 grades. Museums are very interested in this process because of its archival nature. My images tend to be classical subjects....that might be of interest 300 years from now.
|
|
|
|
Reagen Ward
(K=79) - Comment Date 9/5/2003
|
My favorite is basically cyanotype, but using commercial blueprint paper. I mostly use it in a 4x5 Crown Graphic, but I have a home-built 10x10 that I get out when I'm feeling particularly athletic and dexterous.
For more info, check out my site: http://www.blueprintphotography.com
|
|
|
|
Rob Holschbach
(K=2748) - Comment Date 9/5/2003
|
I am partial to salt or albumen printing. For me, alternative process covers a broader area than the hand coated process. What I play with most,I guess, is the paper negative in my 5x7 & 8x10 cams. The other quailty I like about the paper negative is it's tonal range, which differs from ordinary panchromatic film. Bromide papers are blue/green sensitive, and rather insensitive on the red side of the spectrum. They also have offer a higher contrast level than panchro. I like the fact also that you can alter the final image by shading select areas on the negative. Kids play compared to the other processes that are used. Simple is fun.
|
|
|
|
Caroline Cohoon
(K=415) - Comment Date 12/11/2003
|
I also love cyanotypes, they're a lot of fun. However as far as a good tone and good quality print it's hard to beat platinum/palladium.
freestylephoto.biz has some good alt. pro. kits.
|
|
|
|
Reagen Ward
(K=79) - Comment Date 2/5/2004
|
Blueprint paper, clearly, is my favorite. It's not a 'true' cyanotype, but actually uses commercial blueprint paper.
My gallery has some examples.
Reagen
|
|
|
|
al shaikh
(K=15790) - Comment Date 2/8/2004
|
|
|
|
|
Tyler Robbins
(K=904) - Comment Date 8/27/2005
|
Cyanotypes are so easy and work well beyonf just photographs. I have done a series of relief prints on cyanotypes. I block printed noses onto a cyanotyped face. I use negatives but also discovered that if you have access to a good laser ptinter, they produce an excelent transparacy. Of course you are likited to 8x10 size, but a 600dpi print looks great one it is exposed onto a coated paper. Van Dykes are cool too, but not as simple for me. Gum bichromates just make me mad but I want to get better at them. My favorite paper is mr. french 150 gsm durotone, is soaks up sensitizer well, and soaks well.
|
|
|
|
